Rice Wine Explained: What It Actually Is (and Why Sake Isn’t Really Wine)
What You’ll Learn in This Article
- What rice wine actually is — and why grain-based fermentation makes it fundamentally different from grape wine
- The 9,000-year history that connects ancient Chinese pottery to UNESCO recognition in 2024
- Every major type of rice wine — sake, huangjiu, makgeolli, mirin, and Southeast Asian varieties compared
- Why sake’s Multiple Parallel Fermentation puts it in a category beyond both wine and beer
- How to use rice wine in cooking vs. drinking — and substitutions that actually work
In December 2024, UNESCO added traditional sake-making to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list — placing it alongside kabuki theater and washoku cuisine. It is a remarkable honor for a drink that much of the English-speaking world still casually calls “rice wine.” But rice wine is not actually wine. And sake, the most famous example, is technically neither wine nor beer. This guide breaks it all down — from the 9,000-year history of rice fermentation to the science behind why the term “rice wine” is both useful and deeply misleading.

Supervised by
Daichi Takemoto
Authentic Bartender & Owner of Obanzai Nanchatte, Kobe
With 8 years of experience as a professional bartender and now the owner of "Obanzai Nanchatte" in Kobe, Daichi brings hands-on expertise in Japanese sake, whisky, and food pairing to every article on Kanpai Navi.
Table of Contents
- What Is Rice Wine? Definition, Ingredients, and Core Concept
- The Four Ingredients of Rice Wine
- A Brief History: 9,000 Years of Rice Fermentation
- Timeline: From Ancient China to UNESCO
- The Earliest Fermentation Method: Kuchikami-zake
- Types of Rice Wine Around the World
- Japanese Sake (Nihonshu)
- Chinese Huangjiu (Yellow Wine)
- Korean Makgeolli
- Mirin (Japan)
- Southeast Asian Rice Wines
- Comprehensive Rice Wine Comparison
- How Rice Wine Is Made — And Why It Is Not Really Wine
- Three Fermentation Methods Compared
- Grape Wine: Single Fermentation
- Beer: Two Sequential Steps
- Sake: Multiple Parallel Fermentation (Heiko Fukuhakko)
- The Step-by-Step Sake Brewing Process
- Rice Wine vs. Grape Wine: A Complete Comparison
- Cooking Rice Wine vs. Drinking Rice Wine
- For Chinese Recipes: Shaoxing Wine
- For Japanese Recipes: Sake and Mirin
- Rice Wine Substitution Guide
- How to Enjoy Rice Wine: Temperature, Glassware, and Pairing
- Temperature Guide for Sake
- Choosing the Right Glass
- Food Pairing Principles
- Rice Wine: Health Considerations and Proper Storage
- Nutritional Profile
- Storage Guidelines
- Frequently Asked Questions About Rice Wine
- Is rice wine the same as sake?
- Is rice wine gluten-free?
- Does rice wine go bad?
- What is the alcohol content of rice wine?
- Can I substitute rice wine in a recipe?
- Why is sake called “rice wine” if it is not wine?
- Is sake stronger than wine?
- The Bottom Line
- Sources and References
What Is Rice Wine? Definition, Ingredients, and Core Concept
Rice wine is a broad term for any alcoholic beverage made by fermenting rice starch into alcohol. Unlike grape wine, where the fruit already contains fermentable sugar, rice is a grain. Its starch must first be broken down into simple sugars before yeast can convert those sugars to alcohol.
This critical conversion step relies on a mold culture that varies by region. In Japan, the mold is called koji (Aspergillus oryzae). In China, brewers use jiuqu, a complex fermentation starter. In Korea, the traditional culture is nuruk, a wild fermentation cake containing both mold and yeast.
The Four Ingredients of Rice Wine
At its most basic, rice wine requires only four elements. The table below shows how each ingredient functions in the fermentation process.
| Ingredient | Role in Fermentation | Regional Variation |
|---|---|---|
| Rice | Provides starch (the raw fuel) | Japonica (Japan), glutinous rice (China/Korea), various local varieties (SE Asia) |
| Water | Medium for fermentation; mineral content shapes flavor | Soft water (Fushimi), hard water (Nada) in Japan; spring water preferred across Asia |
| Mold culture | Converts starch into fermentable sugar | Koji (Japan), jiuqu (China), nuruk (Korea), loogpang (Thailand) |
| Yeast | Converts sugar into alcohol and CO2 | Cultivated yeast (modern sake), wild yeast (traditional makgeolli, tapuy) |
The mold culture is the defining element. Without a mold to break starch into sugar, rice cannot ferment into alcohol. This is the fundamental difference between rice wine and grape wine — and it is what makes the entire category unique.
The result of this process is a family of beverages ranging from 6% to 20% ABV — from hazy, effervescent Korean makgeolli to refined, crystal-clear Japanese daiginjo sake.
A Brief History: 9,000 Years of Rice Fermentation
The story of rice wine begins in Jiahu, Henan Province, China — roughly 7,000 BCE. Chemical analysis of ancient pottery, confirmed by researchers at the University of Pennsylvania Museum in 2004, revealed residues of a fermented drink made from rice, honey, and wild fruit. That makes rice-based alcohol one of the oldest fermented beverages in human history.
Timeline: From Ancient China to UNESCO
| Period | Event | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| ~7000 BCE | Jiahu pottery residues (China) | Earliest chemical evidence of rice-based fermented beverage |
| ~2500 years ago | Shaoxing huangjiu becomes a banquet staple | First systematic production of Chinese yellow wine |
| ~500 BCE | Rice fermentation reaches Japan | Origins of what becomes nihonshu (sake) |
| ~300 CE | Koji mold cultivation documented in Japan | Shift from kuchikami-zake (mouth-chewed sake) to mold-based brewing |
| 11th century | Sake appears in The Tale of Genji | Cultural entrenchment as a drink of the Japanese court |
| 1600s-1800s | Nada and Fushimi emerge as sake brewing centers | Industrialization and refinement of brewing techniques |
| December 2024 | UNESCO inscribes traditional sake-making | Global recognition of koji-based fermentation as Intangible Cultural Heritage |
The Earliest Fermentation Method: Kuchikami-zake
Before mold cultures were discovered, the earliest method of rice fermentation involved chewing rice and spitting it into a pot. The enzymes in human saliva broke the starch into sugar, which wild yeast then fermented. This practice, called kuchikami-zake (mouth-chewed sake) in Japanese, has been documented across cultures from Japan to the Andes.
The development of mold-based starters was a revolutionary leap. It allowed mass production, consistency, and — critically — far higher alcohol levels than saliva-based conversion could achieve. Koji mold, in particular, produces such powerful amylase enzymes that it enabled sake to reach natural ABV levels unmatched by any other fermented beverage.

Daichi Takemoto
The UNESCO inscription specifically recognized the traditional knowledge of “sake-making using koji mold.” It was not just the drink that was honored — it was the microbiology. The Japanese relationship with Aspergillus oryzae is one of the most sophisticated human-microbe partnerships in culinary history.
Types of Rice Wine Around the World
“Rice wine” is an umbrella term covering dozens of distinct beverages across Asia. Here are the major varieties every enthusiast should understand.
Japanese Sake (Nihonshu)
The most internationally recognized rice wine. Sake is made from polished japonica rice, water, koji mold, and yeast. Premium grades like ginjo and daiginjo have 40-50% of the rice grain polished away before brewing, producing delicate floral and fruity aromas that rival fine wine in complexity.
The global sake market is valued at over $10 billion, with Japanese exports reaching a record 80 countries in 2024. This explosive growth reflects a worldwide shift in how consumers perceive rice-based beverages.
Chinese Huangjiu (Yellow Wine)
China’s traditional rice wine family, with Shaoxing wine as the most internationally recognized variety. Made from glutinous rice and a wheat-based starter called jiuqu. The distinctive amber color comes from Maillard reactions during fermentation and extended aging — sometimes for decades.
Shaoxing wine has been central to Chinese banquet culture for over 2,500 years. It appears in literary works, medical texts, and court records throughout Chinese history. Today it is both a prized drinking wine and an essential cooking ingredient.
Korean Makgeolli
An unfiltered, milky rice wine with natural effervescence. Made with nuruk, a wild fermentation starter containing both mold and yeast. Rich in lactic acid bacteria, B vitamins, and amino acids, makgeolli has attracted modern attention as a probiotic-rich beverage.
South Korea’s makgeolli revival in the 2010s brought the drink from rural farmhouses to Seoul cocktail bars. Young Korean brewers now experiment with fruit infusions, barrel aging, and premium single-rice-variety batches.
Mirin (Japan)
A sweet rice wine used almost exclusively as a cooking ingredient, not a drinking beverage. Essential in teriyaki glazes, sukiyaki broth, and noodle sauces. True mirin (hon-mirin) is fermented; mirin-style seasoning (mirin-fu chomiryo) is a synthetic imitation and should not be treated as a substitute.
Southeast Asian Rice Wines
Many Southeast Asian countries maintain their own ancient traditions. Filipino tapuy is a clear, golden wine fermented in clay jars for weeks or months. Balinese brem ranges from sweet to dry and is used in Hindu ceremonies. Thai and Lao sato is often brewed at home and served at community celebrations.
These beverages are typically community-produced, deeply tied to local harvest festivals, and represent some of the oldest continuous brewing traditions on earth.
Comprehensive Rice Wine Comparison
| Rice Wine | Country | ABV | Appearance | Flavor Profile | Primary Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sake (nihonshu) | Japan | 14-20% | Clear to slightly hazy | Light and fruity to rich and savory | Drinking |
| Huangjiu (Shaoxing) | China | 14-18% | Amber/golden | Rich, nutty, slightly sweet | Drinking & cooking |
| Makgeolli | Korea | 6-9% | Milky white | Sweet, tangy, fizzy | Drinking |
| Mirin | Japan | ~14% | Golden, syrupy | Very sweet, rich | Cooking only |
| Tapuy | Philippines | 14-19% | Clear to golden | Sweet, mild acidity | Drinking & ceremonies |
| Brem | Indonesia (Bali) | 5-13% | Dark amber | Sweet to dry, earthy | Drinking & ceremonies |
| Sato | Thailand/Laos | 6-15% | Cloudy white | Sweet, slightly sour | Drinking |
| Cooking sake | Japan | 13-14% | Clear | Salty, less refined | Cooking only |

Daichi Takemoto
People are often surprised to learn how different these rice wines are from one another. A daiginjo sake and a fresh makgeolli share about as much in common as Champagne and English cider — both come from fermented agricultural products, but the experience is worlds apart.
How Rice Wine Is Made — And Why It Is Not Really Wine
This is where the “rice wine” label breaks down entirely. To understand why, you need to compare three fundamentally different fermentation methods.
Three Fermentation Methods Compared
| Method | Beverage | Steps | How Sugar Is Produced | Typical ABV |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single fermentation | Grape wine | 1 step | Already present in fruit | 9-15% |
| Two-step fermentation | Beer | 2 sequential steps | Malting converts grain starch to sugar, then yeast ferments | 3-9% |
| Multiple Parallel Fermentation | Sake | 2 simultaneous steps | Koji converts starch to sugar while yeast simultaneously converts sugar to alcohol | 18-20% |
Grape Wine: Single Fermentation
Grapes contain natural sugar. Crush them, add yeast, and fermentation happens in one step: sugar becomes alcohol. The process is elegant in its simplicity. Maximum ABV is typically about 14-15% before the yeast dies from alcohol toxicity.
Beer: Two Sequential Steps
Grain (barley) contains starch, not sugar. First, malting and mashing convert starch to sugar. Then, in a separate step, yeast ferments the sugar into alcohol. These two conversions happen sequentially — one must finish before the other begins. Typical ABV: 3-9%.
Sake: Multiple Parallel Fermentation (Heiko Fukuhakko)
Here is what makes sake unique in the entire world of alcoholic beverages. In the main mash (moromi), koji mold converts starch to sugar while yeast simultaneously converts that sugar to alcohol — in the same vessel, at the same time. This process is called Multiple Parallel Fermentation (heiko fukuhakko).
Because sugar is continuously produced and consumed, the yeast never encounters a sugar concentration high enough to stall. The result: sake naturally reaches 18-20% ABV without any distillation — higher than any naturally fermented grape wine on earth.
This is the single most important fact for understanding why calling sake “rice wine” is misleading. Sake’s fermentation is more complex than wine, more complex than beer, and entirely unique in the beverage world.
The Step-by-Step Sake Brewing Process
For those who want to understand exactly how Japanese rice wine goes from grain to glass, here is the full production sequence.
- Rice polishing (seimai) — The outer layers of the rice grain are milled away. Premium sake removes 40-65% of the grain.
- Washing and soaking (senmai/shinseki) — Polished rice is washed to remove bran dust, then soaked to absorb a precise amount of water.
- Steaming (mushimai) — Rice is steamed (not boiled) to gelatinize the starch without making it mushy.
- Koji making (seikiku) — Koji mold spores are sprinkled onto steamed rice in a warm, humid room. Over 48 hours, the mold penetrates the grain and produces starch-digesting enzymes.
- Yeast starter (shubo/moto) — Koji rice, steamed rice, water, and yeast are combined into a small starter mash that builds a dense yeast population.
- Main mash (moromi) — The starter is scaled up in three additions over four days (san-dan jikomi). Multiple Parallel Fermentation runs for 18-32 days.
- Pressing (joso) — The fermented mash is pressed to separate clear sake from the rice solids (sake kasu).
- Filtration, pasteurization, and aging — Most sake is charcoal-filtered, pasteurized twice, and aged 6-12 months before bottling.
Rice Wine vs. Grape Wine: A Complete Comparison
Despite sharing a name, rice wine and grape wine differ in almost every measurable way — from raw ingredients to fermentation chemistry to how they interact with food. The table below provides the most comprehensive comparison available.
| Attribute | Rice Wine (Sake) | Grape Wine |
|---|---|---|
| Raw material | Rice (grain) | Grapes (fruit) |
| Sugar source | Starch converted by koji mold | Natural fruit sugar |
| Fermentation type | Multiple Parallel Fermentation | Single fermentation |
| ABV range | 14-20% | 9-15% |
| Tannins | None | Present (from grape skins and seeds) |
| Sulfites | None added | Often added as preservative |
| Acidity | Low (pH 4.2-4.6); primarily lactic and succinic acid | Higher (pH 3.0-3.8); tartaric and malic acid |
| Amino acid content | High (contributes to umami) | Low |
| Serving temp range | 5 degrees C to 55 degrees C | 8 degrees C to 18 degrees C |
| Food pairing strength | Umami-rich; excellent with seafood, sushi, delicate dishes | Tannin-based; excellent with red meat, cheese |
| Aging | Most consumed young (6-12 months) | Often aged years to decades |
| Calories (per 100ml) | ~103 kcal | ~83 kcal (dry red) |
The only real similarity is the alcohol percentage range — which is likely why English speakers started calling sake “wine” in the first place. In every other respect, these are fundamentally different beverages produced by fundamentally different processes.
Cooking Rice Wine vs. Drinking Rice Wine
A large number of people searching for “rice wine” are home cooks who spotted the ingredient in a recipe. The distinction between cooking-grade and drinking-grade rice wine is critical — using the wrong one can ruin a dish.
For Chinese Recipes: Shaoxing Wine
Use drinking-grade Shaoxing wine with no salt on the label. This is the standard rice wine in Chinese cuisine, essential for stir-fries, braises, and marinades. If unavailable, dry sherry is the closest substitute at a 1:1 ratio.
Avoid bottles labeled “cooking wine” — the added salt (sometimes 1.5% or more) will throw off your seasoning and can make dishes unpleasantly salty. Cooking wine exists primarily to circumvent alcohol sale regulations in some regions, not because it produces better food.
For Japanese Recipes: Sake and Mirin
Cooking sake (ryorishu) works for marinades, simmered dishes, and steaming. It contains added salt and sometimes sweeteners, which means it cannot be used interchangeably with drinking sake in every context.
For teriyaki glazes, sukiyaki broth, and noodle dipping sauces, you need mirin, not sake. Mirin provides the glossy finish and caramelized sweetness that defines these dishes. They are different products with entirely different roles.
Rice Wine Substitution Guide
| If a Recipe Calls For | Best Substitute | Ratio | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shaoxing wine | Dry sherry | 1:1 | Closest match in body and nuttiness |
| Sake (cooking) | Dry white wine + pinch of sugar | 1:1 | Vermouth also works in a pinch |
| Mirin | Sake + sugar | 3 parts sake : 1 part sugar | Honey also works as the sweetener |
| Makgeolli | No close substitute | — | The effervescence and tanginess are unique |
For a deeper look at rice wine substitutes, see our dedicated guide.
Do Not Confuse Rice Wine Vinegar with Rice Wine
Rice wine vinegar (also called rice vinegar) and rice wine are completely different products. Rice vinegar is the result of further fermenting rice wine until the alcohol converts to acetic acid. It contains virtually no alcohol, has a sharp acidic flavor, and cannot replace rice wine in any recipe. Substituting one for the other will produce drastically different — and usually unpleasant — results. If a recipe says “rice wine,” it means an alcoholic product like sake or Shaoxing. If it says “rice vinegar,” it means the acidic condiment.How to Enjoy Rice Wine: Temperature, Glassware, and Pairing
How you serve rice wine matters just as much as which one you choose. Temperature and glassware can transform the same bottle into a completely different experience.
Temperature Guide for Sake
One of the biggest differences between rice wine and grape wine is the extraordinary temperature range. While grape wine is typically served between 8-18 degrees C, sake can be enjoyed across a remarkable spectrum from ice-cold to steaming hot.
| Temperature Name | Range | Best For | Effect on Flavor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yukibie (snow-cold) | 5 degrees C | Daiginjo, sparkling sake | Suppresses flavor; maximizes crispness |
| Hanabie (flower-cold) | 10 degrees C | Ginjo, junmai ginjo | Preserves delicate fruity aromas |
| Suzubie (cool) | 15 degrees C | Junmai, tokubetsu junmai | Balanced aroma and body |
| Jo-on (room temp) | 20 degrees C | Junmai, kimoto, yamahai | Full flavor profile emerges |
| Nurukan (lukewarm) | 40 degrees C | Junmai, honjozo | Opens up earthy, savory umami notes |
| Jokan (warm) | 45 degrees C | Junmai, honjozo, futsu-shu | Rich and rounded; excellent with food |
| Atsukan (hot) | 50 degrees C | Full-bodied junmai, futsu-shu | Bold and warming; best in cold weather |
| Tobikirikan (very hot) | 55 degrees C+ | Robust, earthy sake only | Sharp alcohol sensation; rustic character |
A good rule of thumb: the more aromatic and delicate the sake, the cooler you should serve it. Earthier, fuller styles open up beautifully with a little warmth. This versatility is one of the things that makes sake as a drink so endlessly interesting.
Choosing the Right Glass
Traditional sake cups (ochoko) and pouring vessels (tokkuri) are part of the cultural experience. For aromatic styles like ginjo and daiginjo, a wine glass actually works beautifully — it concentrates the fragrance at the rim and allows you to appreciate the full aromatic range.
For warm sake, a ceramic or earthenware ochoko retains heat and adds a tactile warmth to the drinking ritual. The vessel you choose affects not just temperature retention but your perception of the aroma and flavor.
Food Pairing Principles
Rice wine — particularly sake — is one of the most food-friendly beverages in the world. Its high amino acid content creates natural umami that enhances rather than competes with food. Where grape wine’s tannins can clash with delicate seafood, sake’s soft acidity and umami harmonize with it.
General pairing principles include matching light sake (ginjo) with light dishes like sashimi and steamed vegetables, pairing richer junmai with grilled meats and tempura, and serving warm sake alongside hot-pot dishes and fried foods.

Daichi Takemoto
Sake has roughly five times the amino acid content of wine. That umami backbone is why sake pairs so beautifully with foods that would overwhelm most wines — things like uni (sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe), and even certain cheeses. The amino acids create a bridge between the drink and the dish that tannins simply cannot replicate.
Rice Wine: Health Considerations and Proper Storage
Nutritional Profile
Rice wine’s nutritional profile varies significantly by type. Sake contains approximately 103 calories per 100ml with negligible fat and small amounts of amino acids. Makgeolli is notably higher in protein, B vitamins, and lactic acid bacteria due to its unfiltered nature. All rice wines are naturally free of tannins and added sulfites.
Pure rice wine made only from rice, water, koji, and yeast is generally considered gluten-free, as rice contains no gluten proteins. However, some varieties — particularly Chinese huangjiu and certain Korean rice wines — use wheat in their fermentation starters. Anyone with celiac disease should check labels carefully.
Storage Guidelines
Most sake is best consumed within 1-2 years of bottling and within 2-3 weeks after opening. Unlike grape wine, sake rarely improves with extended aging (though aged sake, or koshu, is a small but growing category). Store all sake cool, dark, and upright. Unpasteurized sake (namazake) must be refrigerated at all times.
Shaoxing wine, by contrast, can age for decades. Vintage Shaoxing wines aged 10, 20, or even 50 years command premium prices and develop increasingly complex flavors with time.
Frequently Asked Questions About Rice Wine
Here are the questions we hear most often from readers and guests at the bar.
Is rice wine the same as sake?
Not exactly. Sake is one specific type of rice wine — the Japanese variety. “Rice wine” is the broader category that includes Chinese huangjiu, Korean makgeolli, Filipino tapuy, and many others. Calling sake “rice wine” is technically accurate but imprecise, much like calling Champagne “sparkling wine.”
Is rice wine gluten-free?
Pure rice wine (including most sake) is generally considered gluten-free, as rice contains no gluten. However, some varieties like Shaoxing huangjiu use wheat in the fermentation starter (jiuqu). Check labels carefully if you have celiac disease or gluten sensitivity.
Does rice wine go bad?
Yes. Most sake is best consumed within 1-2 years of bottling and within a few weeks after opening. Store it cool, dark, and upright. Unpasteurized namazake must be refrigerated and consumed quickly. Shaoxing wine is more shelf-stable and actually improves with age.
What is the alcohol content of rice wine?
It varies significantly by type. Makgeolli is typically 6-9% ABV. Sake ranges from 14-16% (standard) up to 20% undiluted (genshu). Shaoxing huangjiu is 14-18%. Mirin is approximately 14% but is used for cooking, not drinking.
Can I substitute rice wine in a recipe?
For Shaoxing: use dry sherry at a 1:1 ratio. For sake: use dry white wine with a small pinch of sugar. For mirin: use sake with sugar at a 3:1 ratio. Never substitute rice vinegar for rice wine — it is an entirely different product with no alcohol and a sharp acidic flavor.
Why is sake called “rice wine” if it is not wine?
Historical convenience. When European traders first encountered sake in the 1500s-1600s, they had no frame of reference for a clear, high-ABV beverage made from grain. “Wine” was the closest comparison in terms of alcohol content and serving context. The label stuck, even though the production method has far more in common with beer’s starch-to-sugar conversion than with wine’s simple sugar fermentation.
Is sake stronger than wine?
In terms of natural fermentation, yes. Sake’s Multiple Parallel Fermentation allows it to reach 18-20% ABV naturally — higher than any grape wine can achieve without fortification. Most commercial sake is diluted to 14-16% before bottling to balance flavor.
The Bottom Line
“Rice wine” is a convenient label, but it barely scratches the surface. What it really refers to is a diverse family of fermented rice beverages — each with its own culture, craft, and centuries of tradition behind it.
Japanese sake, with its unique Multiple Parallel Fermentation process and 2024 UNESCO recognition, stands in a category entirely its own. Chinese huangjiu carries 2,500 years of banquet tradition. Korean makgeolli is experiencing a global renaissance. And across Southeast Asia, community-brewed rice wines remain inseparable from harvest celebrations and spiritual practice.
Whether you are exploring sake for the first time, cooking with Shaoxing wine, or simply curious about what “rice wine” actually means, the most important takeaway is this: do not let the name fool you. These are some of the most complex, refined, and historically rich beverages in the world — and they deserve to be understood on their own terms.
Sources and References
- UNESCO — Traditional knowledge and techniques of sake-making with koji mold — Intangible Cultural Heritage inscription (2024)
- McGovern, P.E. et al. — “Fermented beverages of pre- and proto-historic China.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 2004. Research confirming 9,000-year-old fermented rice residues at Jiahu.
- National Research Institute of Brewing (NRIB), Japan — Technical resources on sake production methods and Multiple Parallel Fermentation.
- Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association — Annual export statistics and market data (2024 figures).
- Huang, H.T. — Science and Civilisation in China, Vol. 6: Biology and Biological Technology, Part V: Fermentations and Food Science. Cambridge University Press. Comprehensive reference on Chinese fermentation history.